How to Make a Two-Board Backyard Lounger

You can build this chair with just two 1-inch x 10-inch x 10-foot pieces of lumber. It should take you only a couple of hours.

Tools and Supplies: Circular saw / rafter square / bar clamps / cordless drill / two 1" x 10" x 10' boards of cedar or other weather-resistant lumber / 48 1-1/2 inch exterior-grade wood screws
Materials List
· 2 Seatback 9-1/4" x 32"
· 2 Seat 9-1/4" x 20-1/4"
· 1 Front stretcher 5-1/2" x 21-3/4" (beveled 30 degrees along one edge)
· 1 Back support 4" x 25-3/4" (beveled 30 degrees along one edge)
· 2 Front leg 4-5/8" x 21-1/4"
· 2 Armrest 4-5/8" x 28"
· 2 Rear leg 4-5/8" x 32"
· 2 Arm support 3" x 11-1/2" (tapered from 1-1/2" to 3" along length)

2 Mill the Parts
As with most furniture projects, first cut out all the parts from the lumber. You'll then build subassemblies that combine to create the chair.
To make the narrower parts, it's more efficient to rip the entire board in one pass and then chop the pieces to length. But before you do, cut off a full-width piece measuring 25-3/4 inches. This isn't ripped in half; more on that later.
Rip the remaining piece down the middle so you're left with two boards a little under 4-5/8 inches wide. To keep your cut line straight, use the other 10-foot board as a guide. Position this guide on top of the board so your saw's base plate runs along the guide's edge but the blade cuts through the middle of the board. For most saws that means setting the guide 1-1/2 inches off-center. Attach the guide with a couple of screws; you can cut around the holes later.

Now cut all 14 parts from the two 1 x 10 boards to length according to the cut list using a circular saw.
You won't have much scrap-just enough to get a bonfire started.
Grab the piece you cut off the first board and rip it to 5-1/2 inches at a 30-degree bevel. If you need a guide, clamp one of the armrests to the board. The wider piece is the front stretcher; the other is the back support.
Mark a 20-degree cut on the front end of each rear-leg blank. Place the pivot point of a rafter square on the top corner of the leg, and turn it clockwise so its 20-degree mark lines up with the edge of the board. Cut along the line. On the back end of the leg, cut a 3 x 1–inch triangle off the bottom corner.
Create both arm supports with a single tapering rip. Mark the line, clamp the blank to a work surface, and carefully make the cut.
Clamp the parts together before you fasten them. That stops the pieces from slipping as you drive the screws. It's like having an extra set of hands.
Build the leg subassemblies. Attach each front leg to a back leg so that the top corner of the back leg is 14 inches off the ground. Hold a rafter square at 20 degrees against the edge of the front leg to ensure it's fastened at the correct angle. Attach with four screws.
Fasten the seat parts to the leg sub assemblies. Set the front edge of the seat flush with the top corners of the rear legs, and keep a 1/8-inch gap between the two seat boards. Attach the front stretcher so its beveled edge slopes downward. Don't drive screws into the end grain of the rear legs but into the side grain of the front legs, where they'll hold better.